Waterslide 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Kent Jameson, Ken Gygi 1980 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004 |
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Description On the east end of the Crescent Crack Buttress, is a 1-bolt route. This is a short delicate face climb that uses the ripples well. The crux to me seemed to be getting to the 1st bolt.
Protection A tree anchor with slings already on it. Bring back-ups, and 1 draw, for the climb. One can probably bring some small pieces for the upper face, but... you're so close to done.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 12, 2005 rating: 5.9+
Gear Alert
| Hard for the grade - this felt much more insecure than Kermit's Wad. Leading it would be extremely frightening and dangerous. There appear to be two chopped bolts above the high first bolt. The anchor slings currently only have one rap ring - bring another to back it up. |
By Colby Wayment From: Ogden, UT Jul 4, 2005 rating: 5.9+
| I love this route. I think it is an excellent warmup for some of the other routes nearby. The climb may seem runout, but the dangerous sections are pretty easy(5.6) - just be careful making the one or two moves right before clipping the bolt. I thought the crux was well protected just a few feet above the bolt. |
By Colby Wayment From: Ogden, UT Aug 4, 2006 rating: 5.9+
| Forgive me; I didn't intend to sandbag anyone. I was referring to the upper runout section as (5.6). Yes, the bottom section is about 20 feet with some 5.8ish slab moves immediately before the first bolt. The bolt is solid though! I know I've whipped on it numerous times. |
By Joseph Lascurain From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 14, 2012
| Props if this was bolted on lead. If not, it was lame to place the first bolt that high. I cant imagine swinging a hammer from those flaky friction feet when there is a solid stance a few feet lower. I felt the moves below the bolt were a bit harder (and insecure) than 5.8 slab and the moves after didn't quite feel like 5.9 to me at all. Maybe i did it wrong, it does look like it could go a couple different ways. Much harder than some other 5.9 sport routes in the canyon. This can be top-roped from the rap anchors 40 feet above quite easily,as there were no anchor slings as of today. |
By Skat B From: Down Rodeo Mar 26, 2013 rating: 5.9
| There's probably one or two 5.9 moves around the bolt. The rest is probably 5.6ish. The ripples along the face make good slopers. If you fall, then most likely it was because you hit a mental crux. This route really isn't very physically demanding. Be confident cuz you got this!! If you enjoy that route, then you'll probably like Get the Hearse which is between Rainy Day Blues and The Great Chockstone.
| Get the Hearse 5.10a R/X Submitted By: Skat B on Apr 1, 2013
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