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Watermelon Sugar 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,059
Submitted By: Paul Hunnicutt on Jul 15, 2007

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Stan on the Classic Watermelon Sugar

Box Canyon is privately owned. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Clip two easy bolts and then climb pinches, sidepulls, and pockets to a series of chalked holds below the 5th bolt. Throw up and right to a horn right below the 5th bolt and then continue on decent stuff to the 6th bolt. The draw hangs down below onto this horn which is a bit annoying. There is also a crimp you can hit left of the horn. If you move right after the next bolt and clip the chains of Downloader it is 5.11c. You probably want a long draw on the 6th bolt if you move right. And it is a reachy move to clip the chains...be careful once you pull up rope to clip. Much easier once you place two draws on the chains to clip.

For the full climb move left after the 6th bolt into a more delicate, crimpy face and finish another 30-40 feet higher.

Location 

Third bolt line left of the right side of the wall.

Protection 

6 bolts for the 5.11c and maybe +/10 bolts for the 12a.


Comments on Watermelon Sugar Add Comment
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By BrianWS
Aug 2, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A bit of loose rock near the crux section. Felt much harder than other climbs of the same grade in Maple, but similiar to 12a climbs in most other crags.
By Luke Bertelsen
May 30, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Old anchors on 5.30.2014
What's wrong with this picture?
What's wrong with this picture?
By Luke Bertelsen
May 30, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

These chains had also been added.  Presumably they...
These chains had also been added. Presumably they worked just fine for quite some time, but I wouldn't lock my bike up with these things. I added a quick link of what I'd consider to be a more commonly used size for scale. Quick links and mussy hooks are now at the anchor.