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6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
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R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
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Unnamed Short route T,TR 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

Watermarks 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,393
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear No...

Description 

Watermarks is considered by many to be the ultimate moderate climb at the park. This may or may not be your opinion. The route has some nice moves and fun sequences, and it sure is easy to get to. It's also not very long, often crowded, etc. To be sure, if you can't get on the route due to its popularity it's not something to get your undies twisted up over.

Now to the route... Watermarks is easily located by finding the water stains on the southeast end of the Balanced Rock Wall. Climb easily up to a small ledge. Traverse right carefully on this ledge until you reach the two triangular pockets. Use the two triangular pockets to make your way up to a slight bulge in the rock. Use the crack and small face holds to surmount the bulge (crux). Continue up crack to the top.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Watermarks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Watermarks.
BETA PHOTO: Watermarks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Borrowed Rhoads' photo of Remo and drew some lines...
BETA PHOTO: Borrowed Rhoads' photo of Remo and drew some lines...
Rock Climbing Photo: Southeast end of Balanced Rock Wall
BETA PHOTO: Southeast end of Balanced Rock Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the crux on Watermarks.
Just below the crux on Watermarks.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the 2nd piece of gear, moving into the crux mov...
At the 2nd piece of gear, moving into the crux mov...
Rock Climbing Photo: leading watermarks, a micronut and the two smalles...
leading watermarks, a micronut and the two smalles...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Wilder on Watermarks, August 2001
Jason Wilder on Watermarks, August 2001
Rock Climbing Photo: Watermarks.  Classic!  Aug 09.
Watermarks. Classic! Aug 09.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear No...
Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear No...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the first piece of gear on Watermarks.
At the first piece of gear on Watermarks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear No...
Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear No...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marianne on TR, Sept. 2011
Marianne on TR, Sept. 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear No...
Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear No...
Rock Climbing Photo: Free solo of watermarks. June 2016
Free solo of watermarks. June 2016

Comments on Watermarks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zachary Wyatt
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Watermarks is a fun climb, plain and simple. It requires a nice variety of movement and, though it does have an identifiable crux, is consistently challenging throughout. I consider this a "must climb" route.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 28, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

watermarks is one of the best at dl.especially fun to climb on a full moon during the "beer ban"(does the dnr still do the beer ban thing?")bring plenty o swill and no flashlights or i.d.
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If this climb was anywhere else it would not be considered a classic. That's not to say it's a bad climb, I had fun leading it. The hardest climbing is on the first half and that's also the hardest part to protect. To lead it you better be comfortable at placing really small gear and trusting it. That, or use a crash pad and spotter for the start.
By Pete Arndt
Jul 7, 2005

Stephen:If you don't mind me asking. What do you mean by your comment "if this climb (watermaraks)was anywhere else it would not be considered a classic"? Are Devils Lake "Classic's" any less a "Classic" by virtue of their location at Devils Lake? Please clarify.
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 9, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I meant just what I wrote, and nothing more! I haven't done enough climbing at Devils Lake to be able to form an opinion as to whether or not Watermarks is one of the great moderates in the area. I knew the climb was popular before doing it, and for me, it didn't hold up to all the hype. As I wrote, I still think it's a good climb worth doing. If it sounded like I was degrading the climbing at the Lake, that was not my intention.
By sgauss
Oct 11, 2006

Set anchors for top roping on the ledge at the top of the climb, not up alongside Balanced Rock. From the base of Watermarks, go to the right and up to find the Box Canyon which is behind the wall. Go into the far SW corner of this, and boulder up about eight feet to get to the ledge.
By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2011

Not a fan of this one and it definitely isn't a climb for a new 5.8 climber. Be careful to protect the middle section, there's a notch where I placed a nut but I didn't have confidence in it. Thankfully there's a good cam placement a bit higher up.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 18, 2015

From Gokul:


Description

This route is a minor variant of Watermarks (and a squeeze job). It starts just to the right of the regular start and goes up between the two black water streaks. After a few tenuous moves, you hit the good ledgy hold on Watermarks about 12' up. From here, you follow Watermarks or Watermarks Direct, or some combination of both.

The starting sidepulls used by Watermarks Direct are about 3 ft to the right of the start here and are off. The starting holds in the main Watermarks crack are also off.

Location

Between the two black streaks that define the starts of Watermarks and Watermarks Direct.

Protection

Bouldery start, then you get gear in Watermarks or Watermarks direct

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