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 ADVANCED
Balanced Rock Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 
13 5.4 Corner T 
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 
6.63 Smoots T,TR 
AAHRG T,TR 
Basswood Chimney T,TR 
Beer and Booty T,TR 
Bifurcation T,TR 
Der Glotz TR 
False Dilemma T 
Fear and Trembling TR 
Grandma's Staircase TR 
Invitation T,TR 
Invitation Direct T,TR 
Moondust  T 
Morning After T 
Mr. Neutron TR 
New Box T,TR 
Night Before TR 
R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
Switch Cover Crack T 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

Watermarks Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,337
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Watermarks Direct cannot be climbed without making...

Description 

Watermarks Direct is located just to the right of Watermarks. Start to the right of the small ledge on Watermarks, with the two triangular pockets directly above you. Use small side-pull face holds and foot ledges to ascend the route up to the triangular pockets. From here the route links up with Watermarks. Climb the vertical crack to the top.

Protection 

The direct start is a boulder problem, after which good gear can be found.


Photos of Watermarks Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Henning leading the Direct.  Aug 09.
Henning leading the Direct. Aug 09.
Bob Horan on Watermarks Direct, circa 1975.
Bob Horan on Watermarks Direct, circa 1975.
In the thick of it, crimping like mad.
In the thick of it, crimping like mad.
Beautiful climb, beautiful setting, Henning on the...
Beautiful climb, beautiful setting, Henning on the...
Vinny moving into easier terrain.
Vinny moving into easier terrain.
Southeast end of Balanced Rock Wall
BETA PHOTO: Southeast end of Balanced Rock Wall
Isaiah de Therneau coming up over the bulge on the...
Isaiah de Therneau coming up over the bulge on the...
The best damn butt shot you'll ever see of this ro...
The best damn butt shot you'll ever see of this ro...
Smiling while sending, Isaac Therneau.  Aug 09.
Smiling while sending, Isaac Therneau. Aug 09.
Remo, placing the first pro.
Remo, placing the first pro.

Comments on Watermarks Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 30, 2002

This route can and has been led by several bold climbers. I led it this summer with a bouldering crash pad as "pro" to protect the first 18 feet. Good gear abounds after this point.
By John Yaworsky
Dec 4, 2006

Soloing watermarks direct was a standard practice by many of the DLFA in the late 70's and 80's. When we were crimping at the lake all the time it didn't seem like a hard solo at all (low crux). Years later leading it with my sons it felt harder.
By Peter Arndt
Dec 11, 2006

My First 5.10. How hard can it be right?
By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Watermarks (and this whole wall) have not aged well. The rock was already greasy and slimy and then probably thousands have caked it with sludge. Movement is good on this route but it certainly didn't feel good to grab the holds.

After the good cam placement it's hard to protect the middle section until you get over the bulge for a good #1 or #2 C4 (I forget which).