First pitch quite clean and interesting despite few ascents over the years. Takes you right to the anchor on BMUS. 2nd pitch would likely get a bomb by most people's standards as there was a very annoying bush in the way and it's the kind of old school 5.8 that spits you out of the crack. But you'll like it if you're into a little adventurous torture. Exposed.
Full rack; nothing tiny and bring the big stuff. It was nice to have 2 #3's and 1 #4 camalot.
Rap BMUS for P1 or Certain Death with new anchor if you do P2.
1 70m rope is ideal.
Oct 30, 2011
The first pitch has a nice gear belay with a few large nuts and a cam or two and ends at the spike belay at the top of Beam Me Up Scotty and Just Hanging Out. This is the ideal way to get up to that belay if you wanted to TR BMUS, which is one of the coolest slabs in all of the Wasatch.
I have to disagree about that second pitch. Its classic meat and potatoes climbing that you can keep at 5.8 if you know how to handjam and chimney. However, if you mess around and try to not grovel this could turn into 5.10 fairly quickly. Just get on up inside that crack. This feels one number grade harder than the chimney on Crescent Crack, only you're a lot higher off the deck when you're doing it.
The rack should be .3 and .4 cam's, then doubles from .5-3 and a few medium to large nuts. You don't have to have the #4 as there are loads of options but if you bring it you'll use it. The route ends at the top of the Pope's nose and you can rap either Certain Death or Flirtin' Death with a 70. Either of those routes are spectacular in their own right.
Also, the bush Zoso mentions might be annoying but I doubt its 5.8 without it. The jams stop and you have these loose looking blocks to use. (Read: its on its last legs so please don't kill it!) I really liked this pitch - even if I did grunt and pause a lot pulling those wild last moves. I think many of the 5.8's in lcc are harder than the .10's because you have to grunt and grovel. If you could jam and chimney the old school keept grades down low. You aren't going to fall out of this thing if you remember that.