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Standard Route Area
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Penguin, The 
Standard Left 
Standard Right 
Standard Route 



Type:  Ice, 1 pitch
Consensus: WI3 [details]
Season: Winter
Page Views: 876
Submitted By: Adam Wilcox on Dec 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Work your way up a wide, well-defined gully on moderate, tiered ice. Trending left seems to have more reliably thick ice but is steeper. Staying right is easier, but often thinner.

This climb makes a decent alternative if there's a circus on Standard Route.


Roughly 100 yards left of Standard Route. Easily visible from the train tracks. You can't miss it.


Screws. Good-sized trees to belay from at the top.

Photos of Waterfall Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up waterfall W3
Looking up waterfall W3
Looking up waterfall W3 with Fitzy on the lead
Looking up waterfall W3 with Fitzy on the lead

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By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 12, 2012
rating: WI3+

Careful on this one. For us the ice at the crux was more difficult than it appeared from below.