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Waterfall Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Christ S 
Charlie Solo T,TR 
Clamydia S 
Convulsions T 
Degeneration T,S,TR 
Falls, The S 
Greeboo, The S 
Leading To Death T,S,TR 
Lieback Corner T,TR 
Oracle, The S 
Putrefaction S,TR 

Waterfall Cliff 


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Location: 37.2265, -122.1053 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,654
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Telephoto: Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff

Description 

Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.

There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).

Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.

This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.


Getting There 

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles

Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time. At the second Fork in the road, travel accross the bridge and continue down to the observation area. The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ono the right side. The muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head down the gully away from the muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. you will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.


Climbing Season


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Waterfall Cliff:
The Falls   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Degeneration   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Oracle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Putrefaction   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Convulsions   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Clamydia   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Waterfall Cliff

Featured Route For Waterfall Cliff
Mike Arechiga below the crux of "Clamydia" (5.11d) at CR Falls, Castle Rock State Park, California. The route is harder now due to broken holds.

Clamydia 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Waterfall Cliff
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires i...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Waterfall Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
You can see that pretty much anything to the left of the waterfall route is covered in a thick and luscious growth of moss...
BETA PHOTO: You can see that pretty much anything to the left ...
Comments on Waterfall Cliff Add Comment
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By Kristoffer Schmarr
From: 2nd Cornfield
Jun 11, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

There was a pair of tan Mythos on a fallen tree under the 5.9 as of June 10.