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Castle Rock
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Water World 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Ron Olsen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,234
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 1, 2006

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Bob D'Antonio stemming the slot below the crux.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun route starts about 75' right of Country Club Crack, on a big boulder in the creek. The boulder is split in two pieces and lies below a steep wall with a roof between two wide slots (First Movement and Route 66).

Wade the creek to get to the boulder, which is large enough that you can stash packs on it, and flat enough to provide a good belay position.

Step left off the boulder onto the main wall and over to the wide slot that is the start of First Movement. Climb a short way up the slot, past an old pin, and work right to a small stance. Place pro in a good finger crack, then step onto the right wall, and make a slippery move up and right to a good edge (crux).

Continue up steep cracks to the top of the headwall. Clip the first bolt and make a difficult high-step mantle move onto the slab (second crux). Continue up the slab past three more bolts to the anchor. Lower back to the big boulder at the start.

Cool climbing!


Location 

Start as for First Movement (aka Sonata Allegro) then go right up thin cracks to a slab.


Protection 

Gear from small wired nuts to a red Camalot, then four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Long slings and 8 quickdraws.



Photos of Water World Slideshow Add Photo
Bob D'Antonio gearing up on the belay boulder in the creek.
Bob D'Antonio gearing up on the belay boulder in t...
Water World and Subterranean Homesick Blues. <br /> <br />Water World: start on a boulder in the creek, step left and climb a slot to steep cracks on the right, then up a slab to the anchor. <br /> <br />Subterranean Homesick Blues: start at a belay bolt on the main wall, turn an overhang, and continue up the steep slab for two pitches.
BETA PHOTO: Water World and Subterranean Homesick Blues.

Wate...
Bob at the crux.  He's got to step onto his right foot (slippery sloping foothold) and reach high right for a good edge.
Bob at the crux. He's got to step onto his right ...
Bob at the second crux.  He's clipped the first bolt, and now has to work his feet up and high-step/mantle onto the slab.
Bob at the second crux. He's clipped the first bo...
Tony B. just past the crux of Water World having placed a piece.  The blue Alien below protecting the crux is less than perfect.
Tony B. just past the crux of Water World having p...
Bob D, wet but happy after the first ascent.
Bob D, wet but happy after the first ascent.
We got a little wet wading the creek, and then got soaked from a sudden rain shower that hit while we were climbing...calling the route Water World seemed appropriate. <br /> <br />Photo by Bob D'Antonio.
We got a little wet wading the creek, and then got...
Tony B. Leads up into the crux of Water World (11-), at Castle Rock.
Tony B. Leads up into the crux of Water World (11-...
Kat A. reaches the second crux of Water World.  A bolt overhead protects this second crux.
Kat A. reaches the second crux of Water World. A ...
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on.