Water Streak (aka Friday's Follies)
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Beginning at the chain anchor on the first Walt's Wall belay ledge, traverse right and then diagonally upward to the nearest line of 3 widely spaced bolts. The bolt line is followed over very slick and water polished rock, very conservatively rated at "5.9+," but is realistically more like 5.10a/b. The short route may be extended a few more feet by veering slightly right to a fourth bolt (Kopischka finish) and reaching the belay ledge. The Kopischka finish is probably 5.10b, although Layne rated it as 5.10a immediately after the first ascent of the variation. Rappel from the bolt anchor, or continue to the top of Walt's Wall and use the walk-off.
The route begins at the chain anchor atop the first pitch of the standard Walt's Wall route.
Descend from ledge on which the route terminates by rappel using the Walt's Wall rappel route.
Four quickdraws are needed if the Kopischka finish is selected, in addition to a very light rack to protect the opening traverse moves.
|Comments on Water Streak (aka Friday's Follies)
|By Rodger Raubach|
Aug 30, 2012
I'm adding this comment to clarify what I viewed as a confused situation with "In the Out Door," and "formerly Water Streak II." Above, I've described the original Water Streak route as it was described to me back in the early 1970s by Jeb Schenk. I finally got around to doing the route twice when I again visited Laramie in the mid 1980s, by which time it was an accepted route. My wife led the route in July, 1986, and later that day, Layne Kopischka was up drilling the 4th bolt for the "Kopischka Finish." He described it to me as 5.10a at that time, but almost everyone else seems to think 10b is more accurate. I hope this clarifies the situation?
|By Ross Philip|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 18, 2013
This climb is called "Friday's Follies 5.9+" in "The Voo" guidebook by Orenczak and Lynn.