Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in South Pillar
|
Black Rain S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Jungle of Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Sleeping Beauty Girdle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Water Spirit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Sep 8, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Water Spirit is a one star route currently verging on being a bomb due to dirt and vegetation. Even in the unlikely event that this route gets popular and cleans up, it would still be just one star due to the inconsistent climbing and the skirting of moss and a gully. But I enjoyed it. The climbing is not unpleasant, and the roof is interesting.
As for rating, Rossiter calls this 10d on his site, but I think there are harder 9+ and 10a trad climbs in Boulder Canyon. Water Spirit felt a bit harder than the nearby Kama Sutra, also a hand crack through a roof, which I rated 10a. That rating for Kama Sutra was confirmed by another party that climbed it the same day I did (accidentally, thinking Kama Sutra was Crack of Dawn). Water Spirit is a bit less straightforward. So I'm calling it 10b for now, trad rating.
Start: Water Spirit climbs the "Left Pillar" as does Jungle of Stone and Black Rain. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree. This is the start of Jungle of Stone and Black Rain. Walk right on the ledge to the base of black roof with a hand crack and right facing corner through the roof.
The climb: The roof is in black rock and very ugly, but the climbing is better than it looks. The crux roof moves can be toproped with excellent high cams. You can climb up, place the gear, and downclimb, and leave the rest of your bigger cams on the ground. The roof can be climbed at least two ways: with a high step to the lip or straight on. If you climb it straight on, you may need to fist jam. Excellent buckets await you after the roof move.
After the roof, the climbing is 5.9 in a few places but mostly easier. Step left, leaving a piece to protect the second, then climb a thin crack just left of a small, bushy, left-facing corner. This leads to a ledge and another thin crack that continues up into the left side of the gully that separates Left Pillar from the main wall. Continue up the thin crack, stemming when you can, until it runs out. At one point here, my right foot slipped on some grass and I fell, but I stopped myself when my right foot hit a small ledge. So it's still an onsight, right? As long as you don't weight the rope? Step left around the arête onto the dirty slab at the first bolt. The slab gets cleaner above. Pass a tiny tree and climb the easy slab staying at the right edge past 2 more widely spaced bolts. You can place one or two pieces of gear. The climbing is easy, so the bolt spacing should not be a problem. Step left at the top to the anchors.
As for rating, Rossiter calls this 10d on his site, but I think there are harder 9+ and 10a trad climbs in Boulder Canyon. Water Spirit felt a bit harder than the nearby Kama Sutra, also a hand crack through a roof, which I rated 10a. That rating for Kama Sutra was confirmed by another party that climbed it the same day I did (accidentally, thinking Kama Sutra was Crack of Dawn). Water Spirit is a bit less straightforward. So I'm calling it 10b for now, trad rating.
Start: Water Spirit climbs the "Left Pillar" as does Jungle of Stone and Black Rain. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree. This is the start of Jungle of Stone and Black Rain. Walk right on the ledge to the base of black roof with a hand crack and right facing corner through the roof.
The climb: The roof is in black rock and very ugly, but the climbing is better than it looks. The crux roof moves can be toproped with excellent high cams. You can climb up, place the gear, and downclimb, and leave the rest of your bigger cams on the ground. The roof can be climbed at least two ways: with a high step to the lip or straight on. If you climb it straight on, you may need to fist jam. Excellent buckets await you after the roof move.
After the roof, the climbing is 5.9 in a few places but mostly easier. Step left, leaving a piece to protect the second, then climb a thin crack just left of a small, bushy, left-facing corner. This leads to a ledge and another thin crack that continues up into the left side of the gully that separates Left Pillar from the main wall. Continue up the thin crack, stemming when you can, until it runs out. At one point here, my right foot slipped on some grass and I fell, but I stopped myself when my right foot hit a small ledge. So it's still an onsight, right? As long as you don't weight the rope? Step left around the arête onto the dirty slab at the first bolt. The slab gets cleaner above. Pass a tiny tree and climb the easy slab staying at the right edge past 2 more widely spaced bolts. You can place one or two pieces of gear. The climbing is easy, so the bolt spacing should not be a problem. Step left at the top to the anchors.
Protection
Single or double small cams from micro to red Alien. Singles above that. After the roof you only need the smaller cams. Single set nuts. 12+ slings including full length slings and a few draws. There are 3 bolts on the upper easy slab. The climb shares the two bolts with rings anchor used by Jungle of Stone and Black Rain. Tape or crack gloves are useful for the roof crux.
1 Comment