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Willow River State Park
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Unsorted Routes:

Water Music 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg - 1997
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Colin Erskine on Feb 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: So this happened the other day - careful on the ch...

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Description 

Start just left of where the rock gets wet from the falls, just right of an 8-foot shallow black inset. Go up and left to chains halfway up the main ampitheater, just below a large horizontal roof. Apparently this baby is dirty and chossy.

Protection 

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.


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By Byron
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 12, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Bottom half is a little loose. A little tricky to get the four move roof crux down. Really only about 20 ft of fun business. Eases up after the roof crux.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

only the first 20 feet (2 bolts) are dirty. take a couple long runners.
By Jared M Johnson
From: Golden, CO
Aug 7, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun feet-first beta possible for the roof pull. Not necessary but pretty cool. Place your left hand in the crack/jug under just under the roof and your right hand on the small ledge next to the draw just above the roof. Then feel for a right toe hook on the next big jug 3-4 feet above the roof. Re-position your hands, switch to a heel hook, and reach up for the jug with your right hand.
By Bobby Omann
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 3, 2016

This route has experienced some recent breakage but still climbs just fine with no change to the grade. If you aren't super familiar with the start, a stick clip may be nice.

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