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Water Groove 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 926
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Sep 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Leo in the groove.

Description 

AKA "Hornblende Highway", this route is just left of the shorter, left-facing, angling corner. Follow a 6-8" wide seam of black hornblende straight up the face, passing the end of the left corner/roof. Tan anchors mark the finish. The climbing isn't very hard, but the placements are poor in flared cracks, especially down low. The left-facing corner/roof half-way up offers the best solid pro, clip this with a long runner.


Protection 

Anchors on top (tan). Single set of small-mid range cams. (Smaller Aliens to #1 Camalot).



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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 14, 2011

This is likely a better TR, since the first reasonable pro is probably 35-40 feet up, except for maybe a marginal sling around an iffy horn maybe 20 feet up. Near the top, you can reach left and clip 2 bolts. Still, it's worth the effort.