Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Watchtower - First Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Joker, The T 
Mothers Day T 
North Crack  T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Watchtower Standard Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Watchtower Standard Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 638
Submitted By: Jason Albino on Apr 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pitch 3- full value 5.8


Between Dog Buttress and The Joker you'll find a solid flat spot to belay this route (all these routes are right of Mother's Day). The first pitch doesn't look like much, and in fact is dirty and the solid pro opportunities are limited. Eyeball this first pitch closely to see if you're comfortable leading with minimal pro (probably goes at 5.6 depending on how creative you are with routefinding).

If you do, you'll be rewarded with the excellent final two pitches:

P2 has the crux - a thoughtful stem-left, then mantle sequence through the route's sole roof. After gaining the belay, P3 is an excellent, non-grunty chimney with great stem rests & pro, and several options for tackling its vertical.

If P1 were as good as P2 and P3, it might deserve four stars for the sheer fun and solid pro.

Rap the route via fixed bolts. A great afternoon multi in Gallatin Canyon if you get a late start or are looking for a mellower day, since it requires less approach hiking that most of the routes on the adjacent formations.


Rap the route via fixed anchors (look for traffic below before going, especially on the first rap).


Medium-to-wide gear. Bolted anchors.

Photos of Watchtower Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2- Heading to R side of the roof
Pitch 2- Heading to R side of the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1- More fun than it looks like
Pitch 1- More fun than it looks like

Comments on Watchtower Standard Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Aug 18, 2013

Pitch 3 is the crux. No wide gear needed, standard rack up to a #3 camalot
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 13, 2015

the raps can be done with one 60m rope, but its close. and the last rap to the ground will leave you about 5' off the floor with an easy scramble down a couple moves.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!