Watchtower Standard Route
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Pitch 3- full value 5.8
Between Dog Buttress and The Joker you'll find a solid flat spot to belay this route (all these routes are right of Mother's Day). The first pitch doesn't look like much, and in fact is dirty and the solid pro opportunities are limited. Eyeball this first pitch closely to see if you're comfortable leading with minimal pro (probably goes at 5.6 depending on how creative you are with routefinding).
If you do, you'll be rewarded with the excellent final two pitches:
P2 has the crux - a thoughtful stem-left, then mantle sequence through the route's sole roof. After gaining the belay, P3 is an excellent, non-grunty chimney with great stem rests & pro, and several options for tackling its vertical.
If P1 were as good as P2 and P3, it might deserve four stars for the sheer fun and solid pro.
Rap the route via fixed bolts. A great afternoon multi in Gallatin Canyon if you get a late start or are looking for a mellower day, since it requires less approach hiking that most of the routes on the adjacent formations.
Rap the route via fixed anchors (look for traffic below before going, especially on the first rap).
Medium-to-wide gear. Bolted anchors.
Pitch 2- Heading to R side of the roof
Pitch 1- More fun than it looks like
By Dana Prosser
Aug 18, 2013
Pitch 3 is the crux. No wide gear needed, standard rack up to a #3 camalot