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Watchtower Main

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beef Jerky 
Broken Serenity 
Confessional, The 
Crown of Thorns 
Dark Rose 
Dirge, The 
Double Cross 
Extreme Unction 
Feels like Nadine 
Final Prayer Variation 
Fire and Brimstone 
Garden of Eden 
Hellfire Variation 
Holy Grail 
Hungry for Heaven 
Inner Light 
John Doe 2 
Outer Darkness 
Revelation, The 
Rosary, The 
Spirit Prison 
Total X 

Watchtower Main 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: grk10vq on Dec 19, 2009
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reaching for the "jug"


One of the first and largest buttresses you'll reach when hiking up Ferguson Canyon, The Watchtower's main area holds the largest concentration and largest variety of classics. You haven't experienced Ferguson until you've climbed at The Watchtower.

Encompassing almost all styles of climbing, the main Watchtower routes will not disappoint. Holding a little bit of everything, including sport lines, trad lines, and mixed lines, this token buttress keep you coming back for more.

The Main Watchtower routes extend from the entrance of the canyon starting with Double Cross and follow the trail along the base of the buttress ending in The Fortress area with Total X.


Hike up the main trail from the parking lot until you cross the Twin Peaks Wilderness Boundry. The Watchtower is the first and largest pile of rock you'll meet on the right, south side.

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Watchtower Main:
The Confessional   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Inner Light   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Hellfire Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fire and Brimstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Extreme Unction   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Total X   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Final Prayer Variation   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Benediction   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Fortress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Dirge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
John Doe 2   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dark Rose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fishlips   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Watchtower Main

Featured Route For Watchtower Main
The thin face and blunted arete of Fishlips.

Fishlips 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Watchtower Main
Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts. After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top. The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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what route is this?  FINALY sent the damn thing and have no idea what i have been doing.
BETA PHOTO: what route is this? FINALY sent the damn thing an...
Routes just around the corner from Extreme Unction.
BETA PHOTO: Routes just around the corner from Extreme Unction...
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