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DescriptionOne of the first and largest buttresses you'll reach when hiking up Ferguson Canyon, The Watchtower's main area holds the largest concentration and largest variety of classics. You haven't experienced Ferguson until you've climbed at The Watchtower. LocationHike up the main trail from the parking lot until you cross the Twin Peaks Wilderness Boundry. The Watchtower is the first and largest pile of rock you'll meet on the right, south side. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Watchtower Main:
The Confessional 5.6 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Inner Light 5.7 TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Hellfire Variation 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Fire and Brimstone 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Extreme Unction 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Total X 5.10a/b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Final Prayer Variation 5.10c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Benediction 5.10+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet
The Dirge 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Fortress 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
John Doe 2 5.11 PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Dark Rose 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Fishlips 5.11d Trad, 50 feet
Featured Route For Watchtower Main
Fishlips 5.11d UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Watchtower Main
Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts. After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top. The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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