|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 300'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Fahey, Jackson, Batty, & Bull - 1965|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Jan 28, 2007|
|Comments on Watchtower Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ryan Kelly
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great classic route, but was a bit of a letdown for me because of the large amount of hype about it. Certainly a striking line, one of the most noticable at Araps.
It's not hard for the grade, it'd be 5.7 at most traditional granite areas, and you most certainly don't need a huge rack of big gear. One #4 Camalot is plenty, and if you're solid at the grade you should be able to do three moves above a bolt and not need anything bigger than a #1.
I would link the first two pitches as described in the guide, up to the cubby in the chimney; it's not more than 5.5 to that point, and keeps it from being a 4/4 star route, IMHO. The final pitch, past the semi-hanging belay, really only has a few moves before it turns to not much more than a scramble. All in all, a really good route, but not ultra mega super classics, as many claim.
By Steve Skelton
From: Lyttelton, New Zealand
May 21, 2009
|Watchtower is a 5.7, (16). It has been done in two pitches on double 60 meter ropes clipping nothing but fixed gear. It's a classic feature!|
By david goldstein
May 21, 2009
|While I disagree with RK's assertion about WC's rating, SS's comment is complete nonsense. I've never heard anyone else call WC less than Australian 16 (~YDS 5.8+), nor have I ever heard anyone say it was easy at that grade. Furthermore, if memory serves, I've done it in two pitches with a single 50M rope and anyone for whom the grade is a remote challenge would feel grossly underprotected relying on only fixed gear -- I don't think the first pitch has any while the crux remainder has perhaps five (probably fewer) fixed pieces, some of which are antiques.|