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Lower Religion Wall
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Watchtower AKA Last Temptation 

Watchtower AKA Last Temptation 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA Chris Dunn and Jim Erdman,1992 FFA J. Mattson, J. Burcham, 1998
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 2,426
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
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The Watchtower. Tips and crimps at steep start an...

Description 

Super Classic dihedral on the Watchtower formation. Goes from crimps, to tips, to ever widening hands at the end of pitch one. Hardly anybody does the second pitch, and there is a pretty good reason for that.


Location 

It is really right there on your left if you are facing the Church Wall proper. Hard to miss!!


Protection 

A #00 TCU and then doubles through #2 Camalot.



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By CJD
Aug 22, 2007

I did the first ascent of this route/tower with Jim Erdman around 1990?. I led the first pitch and Jim led the second which is a sugary loose mess. It had this loose toadstool that could fall and kill the belayer. It might be gone now. We aided some on both pitches. Later, with Brian Smith, I traversed the limestone band to the left at the top of the first pitch to access the obvious wide crack on the south side. The traverse was easy but the crack to the top was pretty crummy like the original second pitch. No fun, and I had already been to the top so we bailed. I think this is still a better pitch than the original second pitch so somebody should go do it.

We named the formation The Watchtower and the original route The Last Temptation. I don't know if JM renamed it after the FFA.

CJD

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 14, 2010

I think this pitch became known as the "Watchtower" simply because it is AWESOME, and there is really no other enjoyment to be had on this sub formation. Just do the first pitch, love it, and rap it! Unless you have a weird fetish for undesirable summits and really bad stone.

By DMDM
Jan 29, 2012

This right facing dihedral is stout for the grade, very fun!

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jul 19, 2013

It has gotten a bit wider in about three spots. Last winter, a friend I belayed ripped three tiny pieces and the rock around them. Be careful and bury the gear deep enough. Good luck.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2013

That's too bad. Not a good route to fall on because the crux is low, and the gear is thin...