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Tyler just past the crux after the popos left. You...
We climbed this route in February 2011, so it might not exactly be a 'new' FA, but we couldn't decide on a name, so I'm making one up that tells our story.
Scrambel up the scree slope to the base of the flow. You can safely solo the first pitch (WI2) or rope up for a short 30' climb to the belay. The second pitch is exactly half a 60m rope length.
Build your bely at the shelf just below the overhang. I reccomend belaying from as far left as possible to stay out of the way of icefall.
Tyler led this one since I was wearing a knee brace from a work related injury. When he hit the crux, a chunk of ice broke off the size of my torso and rockeketed down the scree below. He got a screw in and we found out the vertical section was hollow from a rock overhang. A spotlight hit us from the road down below. As it turned out, our spectators were Alaska state troopers. They didn't make any other contact with us until Tyler finnished out the crux (a solid 5 minutes later) when they told us to flash our head lamps 3 times if we needed assistance. Since we were out enjoying ourselves, not breaking any laws, and didn't need help, we just ignored them. Finally their consistant yelping about our cimbing got on our nerves and we told them to piss off. They couldn't hear us but we finally got them to leave when a voice came on the loud speaker telling us that they thought we were ok, and we didn't want assistance. We flashed our headlamps 'yes' to this, and they were on their way by the time I was on belay and set to follow.
We didn't think about the route much afterwards even though it was a great climb. From down below it's looks are misleading. All you see is a sweet ice formation on top of a giant scree hill and it looks like mabey WI2. That may be the case for the first pitch, but the crux section is about 20-25 feet of hollow vertical ice with good exposure. The finnish is WI3 to the alders we used as rappeling anchors. I must add, for the man's first lead on ice, he did a great job.
It's directly accross the road from Silverbay Seafoods' front door on Sawmill Creek Rd. If it's in, it will be hard to miss. It looks like a huge land slide swept everything away and left a super steep scree slope and some small rock bands. Look at the upper right hand side and you will see the ice flow and 'Watching TB.'
- Sorry I don't have a photo, the computer I had then crashed and I lost all my files.
Ice screws and screamers should do the trick