Fingers #0.3, #0.4 BDs for crux. Fun to do passively as well; it takes stoppers incredibly well.
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine Apr 5, 2007
I had forgotten about this route and for that matter the rock, but as I recall it's a terrific climb. There's another great climb on this rock that climbs on face holds and holes. I remember the first pitch led you to a small cave or hole in the rock for the belay. I cannot remember the name. Another great climb though.
By Ben Griffin From: Durango, CO Sep 26, 2007 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Yesterday I drilled 27 2" diameter core samples near or on what climbers are calling the "Watchcrystal Crack" as part of a state funded guano research project. AS nitrogen and ammonia levels are determined, the area will most likely be closed for the next 11-14 weeks. Call Center for Guano Studies information line at 970-946-5727 for up to date news on this closure.
Johnson Eggman, president Center for Guano Studies, LLC.
If you do this in two pitches (I'd recommend 1 long 110' pitch), step left at the first belay option, it's a much more comfortable ledge and then you aren't just doing a 35' crux pitch to the upper anchors. It was a little disappointing the way I did it, and I think it would climb nicer in two 55' pitches. Also, watch out for lots of little birds in the back of the crack.
Followed John Bird up this route around 1974, we aided the crux. Bird said he had never seen someone do aid without standing in the top step of their aiders before :-)
Peter Jamieson and Bub Smith did it around the same time with Peter trying to free the crux, after a couple of rather scary falls, with Bub belaying from that little cave spot, the aid went in. This was a couple of years prior to Wunsch's freeing of the route with Peter Jamieson following/belaying him. Peter worked at Pine Needle Mountaineering and Wunsch was in town for some demo thing. Peter asked Wunsch to go climbing, since they had a little time and Wunsch was prepared to aid the crux, but (if I remember correctly) Peter told Wunsch that he thought someone had done it free (a big fat lie) and Wunsch decided to give it a shot free, and now you know the rest of the story.
Can you lower with a 70m from the anchors? I see some conflicting info on the route length in the description and some of the comments.
By Gary N From: Durango, CO Jul 21, 2014 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
A 70m rope will for sure work. I run laps on the Watch Crystal Crack and Apes of Wrath with my 60m rope, just barely. Keep in mind this is just to the top of the first pitch anchors, where Apes and WC meet on the nice ledge with the 3 bolted anchor.