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North Side
Routes Sorted
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Bombelay T 
Captain Kangaroo T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Creatures of Waste T 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 
Glass Menagerie, The T 
Guillotine, The T 
Invisible Airwaves T 
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 
Kahntian Ethics T,S 
Killer Whales T 
Off the Wall T 
Pooter the Poacher T 
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 
Ride the Lightning T 
Safari Arete (extension) T 
Safari Jive T 
Safari Jive Direct T 
Safari Jive Double Direct  T 
Seal, The T 
Shrimp Cocktail T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Waste Not, Want Not 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kris Kline - 1987
Page Views: 5,071
Submitted By: andjoely on Apr 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Eric Singleton sticking the crux on Waste Not Want...

Description 

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.

Location 

This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Protection 

Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.


Photos of Waste Not, Want Not Slideshow Add Photo
Pealing off at the crux
Pealing off at the crux
Kris Kline early on The Waste not , Want not at Lo...
Kris Kline early on The Waste not , Want not at Lo...
Triple zero held
Triple zero held

Comments on Waste Not, Want Not Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 21, 2010

Mike Anderson wrote:
They aren't designed or rated for holding falls...body weight only.

For what it's worth, from the Trango website: "While these units [BallNutz] are excellent for clean aid . . . they’re also terrific for protecting free climbs."
By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 13, 2012

I believe that a tied off friend may work better than the .75 camelot in that shallow first placement. They tend to work well in these situations. I remember seeing KK place that for pro a few years back when he led it.
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jul 1, 2015

The granite crimping and edging encountered on this route will leave you wanting more. Relatively easier moves through a very enjoyable set of sequences leads you to about the halfway point, where the climbing quickly stiffens and doesn't really let up until you are standing on the ledge.

The moves up to the first bolt are somewhat tenuous, but likely won't cast you off if you are ready for the solid mid-5.12 section through the other bolts and the wild crux at the top. If you aren't so psyched on the marginal gear and deck potential on the onsight burn, a toprope is easy to set up after doing Invisible Airwaves.
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