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North Side
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Waste Not, Want Not 
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Waste Not, Want Not 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kris Kline - 1987
Page Views: 3,387
Submitted By: andjoely on Apr 19, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Eric Singleton sticking the crux on Waste Not Want...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.


Location 

This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.


Protection 

Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.



Photos of Waste Not, Want Not Slideshow Add Photo
Kris Kline early on The Waste not , Want not at Looking Glass 1988.
Kris Kline early on The Waste not , Want not at Lo...
Comments on Waste Not, Want Not Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 21, 2010

Mike Anderson wrote:
They aren't designed or rated for holding falls...body weight only.

For what it's worth, from the Trango website: "While these units [BallNutz] are excellent for clean aid . . . they’re also terrific for protecting free climbs."

By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 13, 2012

I believe that a tied off friend may work better than the .75 camelot in that shallow first placement. They tend to work well in these situations. I remember seeing KK place that for pro a few years back when he led it.