Waste Not, Want Not  5.12

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12b/c [details] FA:  Kris Kline - 1987 Submitted By:  andjoely on Apr 19, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Eric Singleton sticking the crux on Waste Not Want...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.

Location 

This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Protection 

Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.

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Kris Kline early on The Waste not , Want not at Lo...