|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Kris Kline - 1987|
|Submitted By:||andjoely on Apr 19, 2010|
|Comments on Waste Not, Want Not||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 21, 2010
Mike Anderson wrote:
They aren't designed or rated for holding falls...body weight only.
For what it's worth, from the Trango website: "While these units [BallNutz] are excellent for clean aid . . . theyre also terrific for protecting free climbs."
From: western NC
Feb 13, 2012
|I believe that a tied off friend may work better than the .75 camelot in that shallow first placement. They tend to work well in these situations. I remember seeing KK place that for pro a few years back when he led it.|
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
The granite crimping and edging encountered on this route will leave you wanting more. Relatively easier moves through a very enjoyable set of sequences leads you to about the halfway point, where the climbing quickly stiffens and doesn't really let up until you are standing on the ledge.
The moves up to the first bolt are somewhat tenuous, but likely won't cast you off if you are ready for the solid mid-5.12 section through the other bolts and the wild crux at the top. If you aren't so psyched on the marginal gear and deck potential on the onsight burn, a toprope is easy to set up after doing Invisible Airwaves.