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Waste Knot  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: Kirtis on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Aprox Line

Description 

Your time will not be wasted when you climb this route; nor will it be wasted when you climb this route again because it was so dam fun. A steep wandering bolted route that uses a brilliant mix of large jugs and in-cut edges to provide an exhilarating experience. The route never seamed run out and was supper fun all the way to the top. My friend accidentally spelled the route like this Waist Knot ?? :) The bolt line can be challenging to spot but there are two little bushes growing out on this route.

Location 

On the SE corner of Tower of Teeth

Protection 

8 bolts an an optional #1 master cam
Bonus Beta: extend every bolt other wise suffer from rope drag


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Me on waste not
Me on waste not

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By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe the credit for the "official first accent" for this route has been lost to the annuals of time. However, an "updated" first accent can probably be credited to Darryl Stisser and Reggie Walters.

I also believe that this is one of those Black Hills climbs that falls into the category of "If you only have time for one climb at (insert location/at this grade) make it this one." THIS ROUTE IS SICK!
By aschwartz
From: Spearfish,SD
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is spelled Waste Knot.
By Dave Molash
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I love the optional #1 mastercam for protection. Beware of breaking rocks when pulling the rope down! ^_^
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

long sling every bolt to minimize drag. awesome route that is very consistent and just keeps coming. this route is pg-13 for sure so be ready when you leave the ground. 15-20ft between each bolt.