Waste A Bit  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 90 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Ryan Beasley, Curt Koontz, John Meyers (2001) Season:  Spring-Fall Submitted By:  TomCaldwell on Jun 6, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mary starting up the first short corner of Waste A...

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2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013, All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed due to local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a great route for Table Rock. It has a long section of quality climbing to the anchors. A good bit of route finding and a technical sequence keep this interesting. Not to mention a sweet roof pull!

Start just to the left of White Lightning on a slab. Move up to a short right facing corner. Step left onto the face and move straight up to a bolt at the bulge. Make some tricky moves left to another bolt at the base of the roof. Plug some gear before attempting to clip the bolt above the roof. Make the very difficult clip to the rusty bolt above the roof. Pull the wildly overhanging roof making use of what few holds it has to offer. Stand up and wander up the easy slab to a bolt and then to the anchors.

Location 

Just to the left of White Lightning, look for the bolts at a bulge and roof.

Protection 

Single rack, tri-cams, nuts, a few 24" runners, and four bolts to a two bolt anchor. The NC Select guide suggests a #4 camalot, but the placement is around a lot of loose rock and is protected better once you step around the starting corner with some passive gear. Rap with a 60m.