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This route gets three starts in the Gunks Select, and for good reasons. It's got great climbing and tends to be less crowded, due to the lack of other moderates around it.
Start 40' right of the hanging left-facing corner of Frustration Syndrome, at the last obvious crack on the right.
On the first ascent Pete Geiser put his finger in a pocket and got stung by ... you guessed it ... a wasp! For the longest time I had trouble finding a partner who wasn't afraid of wasps to climb this route. Rumor also has it that the name stands for White Anglo-Saxon Protestant.
P1: Climb the crack and shallow left-facing corner (crux), then up the right-facing corner and crack above (still hard) until it is capped by a small overhang. Step left, and continue easily up the face to the GT Ledge and belay, 5.9, 160'.
This pitch can be nicely split into a 5.9 and a 5.6 pitch with a semi-hanging gear belay at or above the rooflet; considering the low crux, this might be a good approach.
From the GT, two ropes get you to the bottom of the route from the tree; a tree ~40' right will get you to the top of the mound right of the start with one rope (but watch the ends).
P2: This pitch is short but fun 5.9 climbing. Move left and climb the right-facing corner. From here, move up and right through a notch in the left-facing corner to the top and head left to a pine-tree rap station. 5.9, 90'.
Small nuts and RPs will protect the thin crux move. Otherwise, standard rack.
Mark Mooradian almost through the hard part.
Nov 5, 2007
Gear: Small cams, 3CU/TCU and/or ballnutz are helpful on the first 20 feet (crux).
Bringing one or two cams up to #2 is a good idea for the easier, sweet face above the short right-facing corner if you don't like making mild runouts. If you bring #3, it will definitely find its uses as well, although it's not necessary.
Nov 5, 2008
The crux is tricky to protect *well*. I use a BD micronut, an upward-pull nut down lower, &/ pink and black tricams. Your mileage may vary. I also later found a good BD TCU placement once we'd given up our Aliens.
The climbing above the GT seemed very loose - we opted not to continue.
This is a favorite route of mine, and was my first (intentional) 5.9 once upon a time.
|By Jay Harrison|
Jan 17, 2010
This was my first 5.9 lead, coaxed into it by the crazy Brit John Beavin. The crux wasn't the hard moves anywhere on the route, it was the ride up from Rockland Co. in his car. He drove insanely fast and nonchalantly passed slower vehicles wherever the shoulder was wide enough for oncoming traffic to veer out of our way. Tense moments each time, as I prayed the fellow hurtling toward me would think to get over there before hitting us.
Free-soloing that route would have caused less anxiety. I remember thinking, "Well, maybe I'll die trying this and won't have to ride home!"
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I agree with Julie that the beginning moves protect with the smallest nut (4KN) that I carry which adds a bit of spice to the climb.
The second pitch you are describing is actually an old variation called "Stubai To You" and is part of a climb called "Expedition to Nowhere." The second pitch of Wasp is a 5.5. Many people link the two to keep the grade more consistent.
|By Robbie Flick|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
My climbing buddy and I cruised down here several weeks after on a very busy day to escape the crowds. We got on the climb and weren't sure if we were on an established route; cobwebs, vegetation, and lichen everywhere.
We found the crux to be the first couple moves on the cracks, where it's a bit steeper. Protection was iffy and took a creative approach.
After the rap station, we weren't sure where the route went (guidebook was quite unclear) so opted to go straight up and over the small roof. The moves from the corner onto and above the roof were exciting, which then led to easy 5th class and 4th class scrambling over lichen and through a meadow to the top. We passed a sling that must be at least 20 years old. Be aware that loose rock is a problem on this section.
Despite the ease of climbing, was actually quite fun as it gave such an accessible area a more adventurous feel. That, and it was one of the most beautiful and isolated climbs I've done here. Highly recommended!
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This climb is incredibly boring. How does this get three stars compared to other three star routes like Ant's Line and Bonnie's Roof? It is about 15' of about 5.8, followed by lots of uninteresting easy face climbing. My personal recommendation, don't bother.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This route gets three stars because if one cut the first 30 feet from it, the pitch would be 130 feet of spectacular easy face climbing on superb rock in a quiet location.
Jun 6, 2011
The second pitch is kind of interesting as well. The crux is not 5.9, though (unless we got lost). I think the Williams guide put it at 5.6 or so, which seemed right. It could arguably be 5.7. Like the rest of the Slime Wall climbs, it is quiet.
|By Adam Fernandez|
From: Matawan NJ
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Did the climb onsight and thought the beginning crux section was very good. I found a solid placement for a purple C3 under the first hanging block after the first couple moves. Before this a good spot should help you avoid any problems. After that i placed a red c 3 in the horizontal out left. A blue c4 fits in the obvious pod but it eliminates a good foothold if you place it there. Once you get under the roof its all over. The climbing above is the usual Gunks 5.5 ladder but as mentioned before its long and on clean rock in a nice quiet area.
- *Note** There is a small loose block near the top of the climb almost directly under the belay/rap tree. It is about the size of a shoe box and wiggles in place. It is Dark Orange in color. There is no need to grab it and it can be easily avoided but it was marked with an X as of 5-5-13.