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A pretty great climb that has a couple surprisingly difficult moves. You can make it a little easier by climbing pretty far right, there is a big edge over there that you can reach the bolt way far left from about 15 feet up, but it's more fun and a little more difficult to try to go straight up. After you nail the crux by snagging the huge flake undercling halfway up it's basically over. A worthy climb-- at least as classic as Annadonia, which gets a lot more traffic.
Be sure to bring your beekeeper's suit and a can of RAID.
From the top of the approach trail, take the left where the trail forks. The furthest left bolted wall is the Cyclops area. This climb starts a few feet left of Cooler Crack, next to the tree, climb the line of bolts to the anchor below the birch tree.
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
|Comments on Wasp Mentality
|By Ian Harmon|
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 19, 2006
A fun route. The rock is very sharp and the climbing is fairly sustained. Mind the wasps in the namesake bomber undercling about halfway up. The route eases up a bit after either being stung by or avoid the wasps.
|By Jonathan Williams|
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 25, 2007
Best to do in the spring or late late fall (post-freeze). Not often done, but very fun.