Wasp Factory 5.12c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Year round |
| Submitted By: | RyanJames on Oct 15, 2010 |
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Climbs small tufas up the steep wall to the top of...
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Cuba Closes All Access to its Mountains MORE INFO >>>
Cuba has been become a booming winter climbing destination. Hundreds of overhanging sport routes draw Canadian and European climbers, and Cuba’s vast limestone walls are home to a developing community of local climbers. Cuba also has become a favorite destination for many other adventure travelers. For now, it is all over. An unexplained edict of the Cuban government has closed its western mountains, not only to climbers, but all visitors, climbers, hikers, and birders a like. This report is provided here because of the many U.S. climbers who ignore the lightly-enforced U.S. travel ban to climb in Cuba.
Trouble in Paradise
In January 2012 the Cuban authorities closed almost all access to the mountains in Western Cuba. The closure does not apply only to climbers, but all visitors, from cavers and mountain bikers to hikers and bird-watchers. In Viñales National Park, home of about 80 percent of the established routes, access is limited to walking with official guides on the few trails long ago “authorized” by officials for tourism. The authorized trails reach about one percent of Viñales Valley, and go nowhere near any of the climbing sites. The rest of this World Heritage site is off-limits to all visitors.
No one has seen a written decree, so the full scope, rationale, and penalties are unknown. Local officials themselves can’t say why the policy on access has changed.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description Climb through perfectly sculpted stalagtites to the anchors.
Location The center of the wall. Climb to where the monstrous 30 foot long stalagtite protrudes from the wall.
Protection Bolts to bolted anchor. Easiest to clean on TR.
Henri on his 10000th lap of wasp factory
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no hands rests keep the pump at bay
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By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2011
| Absolutely incredible line. |
By RyanJames
Jan 19, 2011
| Agreed.
Here's some footage that contains some great footage of the route. Check it out!
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By Jean Spencer
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2012
| really great. I had to clean the route too. that was tough. maybe even tougher than climbing up. ha! |
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