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Liberty Bell
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Beckey Route (SW Face) 
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Serpentine Crack 

Serpentine Crack 

5.11

   

FA: 
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 4 pitches
Views: 81 page views

Submitted By: Mark SLC on Aug 27, 2009


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Finding a rest on sweet 3rd pitch


Description 

Great route that doesn't seem to see much traffic. First pitch a little mossy but the rest we thought were stellar.

Pitch 1 - slab moves heading left into a corner with short 5.8 move over a bulge. Belay above some moss in a corner/gully below obvious 5.11 handcrack. 5.8

Pitch 2 - Head up easy handcrack (#3 camalot) to base of steep 5.11ish business. We bumped the #3 to eye level on start of the steep section. Seemed to work well for us. Great gear not particularly cruxy or long just physical. 5.11.

Pitch 3 - Sweet left angling hand crack w/ left foot on slab and right in crack. Note old wedged 2x4. Awesome exit move pulling small roof/bulge with great gear. Continue above and build anchor before tunnel. 5.10

Pitch 4 - head up and right through tunnel (recommended) or left and over (harder and less pro). Continue on beautiful exposed sunny arete/spur. 5.7

Simul/scramble to summit.


Location 

Liberty Bell West Face. Approach as for Beckey route but stay left at fork in gully. You can stash packs here and pick em up on descent.

Route starts up and left so scramble up 4th class ledges to start at slung small pine above slabs. Look for prominent roofs as per topo left of the crack.

Descend as for all other routes from summit (Beckey Route and 2 raps - watch for rope catching on blocks below second station)


Protection 

We brought doubles to #3 camalot, and 1 #4 sufficed for bulge on crux 2nd pitch.



Photos of Serpentine Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan on Pitch 4 - pic taken from another party on Beckey route

Ryan on Pitch 4 - pic taken from another party on ...

Pitch 2.  Take!  Working through the crux.

Pitch 2. Take! Working through the crux.

Ryan on pitch 1

Ryan on pitch 1