Mountain Project: Climbing North Cascades

Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006
Administrator: Peter Franzen
Latitude: 48.5123 Longitude: -120.6540
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Description

Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:

South Arete 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II South Early Winters Spire

Beckey Route (SW Face) 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II Liberty Bell

SW Rib 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III South Early Winters Spire

Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III North Early Winter Spire

East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire

The West Face 5.11- Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III North Early Winter Spire

Liberty Crack 5.11- C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Liberty Bell

Featured Route For Washington Pass

The Early Winter Spires. North Early Winter is on the left. The Boving-Pollack Route heads up slightly left of center to the tree-covered ledge, then continues up and left. (Photo thanks to Matt Farmer)

Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 WA : North Cascades : ... : North Early Winter Spire

Typically done in 5 pitches, some can be strung together to do it in 4. There are some wide bits, but they are actually quite fun and don't require the use of wide crack techniques. The climb starts by scrambling up a trail traversing north along the base of North Early Winter to the base of a corner/crack that leads up to a ledge with lots of trees. P1 - Climb the crack/corner to the ledge. Part of it is a chimney that doesn't have much in terms...[more] Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Washington Pass

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By sqwirll
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 21, 2008

We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.

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