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DescriptionThe highest of the Gunsight peaks, the notch between the middle and north peaks forms the namesake "V" slot. The rock is white granite, some of the best in the cascades. Major faces exist on the East (Blue Glacier) and West (Chickamin Glacier) sides. Getting ThereDistinctly Alpine The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Peak:
Gunrunner 5.10 C1 Easy Snow Trad, Aid, Snow, Alpine, 18 pitches, Grade IV
East Face 5.10d Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Middle Peak
Gunrunner 5.10 C1 Easy Snow WA : North Cascades : ... : Middle Peak
This route is the complete N->S traverse of the range, summiting the Northeast, North, Middle, and South peaks. The route will require carrying over, likely with ice axes and crampons. It begins and end on glaciers, although for us it began on the Chickamin and ended on the Blue Glacier.P1. 5.10- up splitter hand crack left of a dihedral with a crack in it. Beautiful grey rock. There’s a great looking finger crack just to the left of...[more] Browse More Classics in WA |