North Peak

BETA PHOTO: North peak, on the left

Description 

Looming steeply above the Chickamin Galcier, the North Gunsight Peak boasts one of the Cascades' sheerest and cleanest faces. Although fiary broken up from the East, good rock and lower-angle terrain may eventually yield high-quality rock climbs as well. This peak also has an interesting summit structure, with a thin terrace/sidewalk (still housing the original 1938 summit register) roughly 30' below teh actual top of the peak, which is reached via chimneys or corners from the small terrace below.

Getting There 

Distinctly Alpine

The Classics

Featured Route For North Peak

West Face 5.11+  WA : North Cascades : ... : North Peak

First Ascent by Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich in 1986 at 5.10 A2, The route went 20 years before a repeat, and 21 years later (2007) saw it's FFA by Max Hasson and Jens Holsten, 5.11+Pitch 1 - Rated 5.7 by the first ascentonists, this pitch is more like 5.9 or 5.10a, with less than obvious gear. Climb up a pillar, cracks, flakes, and occasional knobs, generally straight up. A belay can be made at ~40m on a small (think one foot) stance.Pitch 2 - T...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA