First Ascent by Fred Beckey and his brother Helmy, June 21, 1941. In his book, Challenge of the North Cascades, Beckey called this: "...the most difficult climb we had ever done." On the dangerous descent a piano sized block threw him. Of that he wrote: "In years of mountaineering this was perhaps my narrowest escape."
Getting There
How you go in depends on what the goal is.
For the original route to the summit, approach from Canada via Depot Creek. 4WD may gain 2km on the logging road. Here is a nice beta tidbit I found somewhere long ago: "be ready to tunnel brush left of a waterfall to avoid headwall at 4,500'."
To reach the monster east face, first hire the Ross Lake Resort's shuttle boat to the Little Beaver Trail Head. Leave the good trail at Perry Creek and suffer through the devils club.
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