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DescriptionThe North Cascades are home to a huge number of sharp granite peaks with many excellent alpine climbs. With so much to offer and typical alpine approaches, you probably won't find mobs of other people. The granite is mostly very good, offering cracks, chimneys, flakes, roofs, etc. Summer is the time for alpine rock. Getting ThereThe general North Cascades area can be reached either by driving west on Highway 20 from I-5 (although Highway 20 is more often closed than not) or by driving east on Highway 2 to Leavenworth or I-90, then North on Highway 97 and North again on Highway 153, which meets up with the other side of Highway 20 in Twisp. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Cascades:
Coleman Headwall Steep Snow Snow, Alpine, 2000 feet, Grade IV Mt. Baker
Coleman/Deming Glacier Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine, 7080 feet, Grade II Mt. Baker
South Arete 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire
Beckey Route (SW Face) 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II Washington Pass : Liberty Bell
SW Rib 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire
East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
The West Face 5.11- Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire
Liberty Crack 5.11- C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Washington Pass : Liberty Bell
Featured Route For North Cascades
 First Ascent by Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich in 1986 at 5.10 A2, The route went 20 years before a repeat, and 21 years later (2007) saw it's FFA by Max Hasson and Jens Holsten, 5.11+Pitch 1 - Rated 5.7 by the first ascentonists, this pitch is more like 5.9 or 5.10a, with less than obvious gear. Climb up a pillar, cracks, flakes, and occasional knobs, generally straight up. A belay can be made at ~40m on a small (think one foot) stance.Pitch 2 - T...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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