Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Show routes:
Select route...
Angel 
Canary 
Cat Burglar 
Crack of Doom 
Damnation Crack 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) 
MF Overhang 
Midway 
Midway Direct 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The 
Saber 
South Face, Jello Tower 

Angel 

5.10b

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 227 page views

Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Aug 23, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Angel Crack in its entirety.


Description 

This ultra-classic, super-short finger-crack is quite a popular line at castle and seldom feels very easy. There's a good rest at the handjam pods high on the route. Some consider it cheating to reach out to the rail at any point that is not the very top of the horn. Also, watch out on warm days as the crack and the super-polished footholds can get very greasy. Technically the route continues up to a rap anchor and several more pitches to the top of Castle Rock, but this is rarely climbed. There is a route description for this in the Leavenworth guide.


Location 

Very obvious at the base of Upper Castle, just left of the intimidating Damnation Crack.


Protection 

Several small cams. Typically the green, yellow, and grey aliens work great. Also bring two shoulder length slings to sling around the horn at the top of the crack (for the anchor). From the ground, you can pretty easily flip the slings off the anchor with the rope when you're done TRing the route.



Add Photo Photos of Angel
Angel Crack finally redpointed. During the summer, the shade and coolness of the morning seem to be key.

BETA PHOTO: Angel Crack finally redpointed. During the summer,...


Add Comment Comments on Angel
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006

I always thought that the 5.7 rating was a sandbag! Thanks for up rating.

By Dave E.
From: washington
Oct 16, 2007

For full value (imho) step left at the top of the finger crack to the obvious offwidth(short) that leads to a ledge with rap slings. If you wish to pro the offwidth bring a BIG cam ie #6 friend or likewise. However, there is a fixed pin at the begining of the offwidth, making it manageable without large a cam. When in doubt.....