Shirley midway up Serpentine Ridge with Colchuck G...
Description
A very exciting and aesthetic line, which climbs the ridgeline on the right side of Dragontail Peak. Climb up an obvious dihedral system, past two trees with webbing on them until you reach a large terrace (done with a 70 meter rope). Next, continue up to a stance about 60 meters away where a rock is slung with webbing. Move up to the large pillar and go around right to set up your belay. The next two pitches are the crux 5.8 pitches and can be linked with a 70 meter rope. Move right from the pillar, across the face and into a large crack. Climb this until you can traverse left across a small, nobby slab and up another crack system that turns into a small dihedral. Belay up over a small hump right next to a piton. Continue the next pitch (past the two 5.8s) up left. For the rest of the route stay on the ridge line. There is a small down-climb and then after it move up right towards the summit. At the last part go around left of the summit block and follow a well traveled path to the top. Beware of loose rock through much of the low 5th class climbing. All of the technical climbing is solid.
Location
Located on Dragontail Peak, about 200 feet right of the Backbone route, on top of a bulging pile of rocks. It is the ridgeline that is right of the ridge that contains the obvious face near the top.
Protection
Standard rack up to 3 inches. Doubles up to 1.5 inches is optimal, excluding the very small sizes (like metolious purple and silver). Some long runners, about 12 draws (including runners). Crampons and ice axe are important for the decent. Helmet!
Did this one a year before doing Backbone (2005). Climbing was OK but much more loose stuff than on Backbone (I thought) & the best pitches here did not compare to best ones on its neighbor. Posted a beta page on summitpost:
Dragontail Peak
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