Final and Crux pitch. It's actually vertical desp...
Description
This is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing.
Begin up left angling cracks. Continue up, cross a gap, move to your right. Move up a wide chimney system that gradually narrows. Continue up the chimney crossing under and belaying atop a huge block wedged in the chimney. The next pitch goes up a squeeze chimney and ends on a nice ledge. The final pitch is usually considered the crux. Several wide sections and some tenuous moves make it spicy. The left facing dihedral tops out at the summit.
Location
The route goes up the south face of the peak. Traverse the lake until you find the start. Walk off the west face route or rappel the north side of the peak. Also beware of the snafflehounds. They will eat your shoes, gear, etc!!!
Protection
A set of doubles to #3 camalots are best but many can go with less. There is little fixed gear on this route or at the top.
There are over 10 routes on the south face. Everyone calls it the Stanley Burgner route so it is not confused with other lines like the South Face - Beckey Route, South Face - The Javalin, South Face - The Joust, etc., etc.
I think it might be PG13 if you begin via the 5.7 chimney (have not done)? There are no runouts if you start via the 5.8 wideness just left of chimney. Everything else on the route can be laced up. If you want more beta, here's my write up of it:
Prusik Peak
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