West Face 

FA:  Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12- [details] Length:  9 pitches Views: 254 page views Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: This is looking up at the long hand crack and gian...

Description 

This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.

I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.

P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.

Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Gear to 3.5 inches