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Colchuck Balanced Rock
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Tempest, The 
West Face 

West Face 

5.12-

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 9 pitches
Views: 781 page views

Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: This is looking up at the long hand crack and gian...


Description 

This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.

I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.

P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.

Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.


Protection 

Gear to 3.5 inches



Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 for us.<br /><br />The steep 5.10+ crack, 5.7 chimney, and 5.9 corner link into one 55m pitch.

Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...

Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)

Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)

5.9 crack and 5.12 roof above.

5.9 crack and 5.12 roof above.


Comments on West Face Add Comment
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By Sol Wertkin
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c

The fixed nut on the crux pitch is gone. Consensus seems to be about 11c for the crux.