Milky Way 

FA:  Ron Cotman, Gordon Briody, Pauline Hsieh, Mike Croswaite Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10- [details] Length:  2 pitches, 100 feet Views: 292 page views Submitted By: ScottH on Jan 29, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Milky Way is the 3rd bolted route from the right side of the Pearly Gates buttress, and begins up an obvious, left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.10), traverse left ~15 feet, and follow a line of bolts up interesting, slabby climbing to a ledge and belay from chains. The second pitch (better than the first) heads up straight off the belay for another 100' of fantastic climbing. After the initial 5.10 moves up and out of the dihedral, this climb delivers close to 200' of consistent, interesting 5.9 climbing.

Getting off this climb is a rope stretcher! When lowering off the second pitch our 60m rope wasn't quite long enough to reach back to the ledge-- the climber can lower to the left of the belay and downclimb easy terrain. Likewise, reaching the ground from the ledge may require a two rope rappell (even with 60's). Alternatively, walk right on the ledge to the Dog Ate My Topo anchors.

Protection 

P1- 8 bolts, P2 9 bolts