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Magic Fern 

5.9

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 242 page views

Submitted By: sqwirll on Apr 15, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: The route follows the right leaning crack up to th...


Description 

A bouldery start leads to a right traversing finger crack with good nobs for feet. Continue up the wide left leaning pillar.


Location 

Approximatley 50' left of Battered Sandwich.


Protection 

Gear to 4", slung block at the top with rap rings for anchor.



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By sqwirll
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 15, 2008

We excavated this route on 3/22/08. We climbed it on 4/11 and there is now a lot of loose dirt that needs to wash out of the cracks or it may need additional cleaning.

By Eric8
From: boston
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.10-

The route actually continues to the top of the cliff. Although benign looking SVR lists this section as 5.9. I found it to be harder than any of the 10a's on the ltw. The crux was moving out of a short chimney into a tight hand crack with bad feet.

Its still possible to rappel with a 60m rope from the top of Istanbul. This is a bolt and sling anchor that did not have rap rings on the slings.