This description is really only for the free version of P1, as it is somewhat popular. People do climb the full aid route as well, but my information on that is limited. I have also free climbed from the ground through the thin corner above the arch to the anchor below the bolt ladder. This goes at about .12a/b and is fun as well. I suspect it has been free-climbed in the past, as there is a good lead bolt protecting the moves. Climb the thin pin-scarred arch past bolts to a two-bolt sling belay about 40 feet up (.11b). Either descend or continue to free climb through a thin corner past one bolt and possible gear placements to another sling belay before the pitch 2 bolt ladder.
The rest of the pitches are primarily aid:
P2: Bolt ladder and an A3 section.
P3: Mixed free and aid to a rightward trending ramp.
P4: A2 groove/crack that gets runoff from the top.
Location
P1 is the very obvious left-curving arch encountered after passing the sport wall on the trail heading towards the Earwax wall. Descent from the upper pitches may require two 60m ropes.
Protection
Bolts and possibly a small cam or two if planning to lead the .12 section as well. Fixed anchors on the lower part, but consider bringing a knife and some fresh webbing as the hangers clogged with old slings.
Aid bolts higher up are rumoured to have been upgraded recently; I'm not sure if this applies to the belay bolts as well.
Description
This description is really only for the free version of P1, as it is somewhat popular. People do climb the full aid route as well, but my information on that is limited. I have also free climbed from the ground through the thin corner above the arch to the anchor below the bolt ladder. This goes at about .12a/b and is fun as well. I suspect it has been free-climbed in the past, as there is a good lead bolt protecting the moves. Climb the thin pin-scarred arch past bolts to a two-bolt sling belay about 40 feet up (.11b). Either descend or continue to free climb through a thin corner past one bolt and possible gear placements to another sling belay before the pitch 2 bolt ladder.
The rest of the pitches are primarily aid:
P2: Bolt ladder and an A3 section.
P3: Mixed free and aid to a rightward trending ramp.
P4: A2 groove/crack that gets runoff from the top.
Location
P1 is the very obvious left-curving arch encountered after passing the sport wall on the trail heading towards the Earwax wall. Descent from the upper pitches may require two 60m ropes.
Protection
Bolts and possibly a small cam or two if planning to lead the .12 section as well. Fixed anchors on the lower part, but consider bringing a knife and some fresh webbing as the hangers clogged with old slings. Aid bolts higher up are rumored to have been upgraded recently; I'm not sure if this applies to the belay bolts as well.
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