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Upper Town Wall
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5.11+ A0

   

FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Larry Kemp, 91
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid
Consensus: 5.11+ A0 [details]
Length: 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
Season: Not summer
Views: 158 page views

Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008


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Description 

P1 (Hard .11+/mid .12): Edge and crank your way past two small roofs into a cruxy corner. Very hard for the grade if the rest of the climb is considered .11 to .11+. Bolted anchors on a ledge. Sometimes treated as a 'separate' climb because of its difficulty. 100'.

P2 (.11+): Fun face climbing through two obvious cruxes leads to another belay stance. This is the 'crux', but only if you don't count P1 (Which can be bypassed by climbing the first pitch of Town Crier/Green Dragon at .9+/.10-). 80'.

P3 (5.9+): Steep crack climbing leads to a large ledge (Smokeout Ledge). Gear to #3 camalot. 45'.

P4 (5.10 A0): A short bolt ladder leads to very interesting face climbing in a large area of a different rock variety to a hanging belay at a stance. 90'.

P5 (.11): This and the next pitch share the same thin and technical face climbing. They both are solid 5.11.

p6 (.11): See previous pitch. This one may be a touch harder.

P7 (5.9+): Bolted climbing up quartzite leads to the top of the wall. A small amount of natural gear may be required on this pitch.


Location 

This starts down and right of the obvious first pitch crack of Town Crier/Green Dragon, which is on a pedestal higher up the trail. Climb past two bolts to a stance at the base of the tough climbing.

Two 60m ropes guarantee a no-frills descent. This would be way quicker even if it were possible with one rope (which it may be). A walk-off is also possible, but far less convenient.


Protection 

All bolts except for P3 and possibly the final pitch. Take 12-14 QD's including a couple of longer slings. Gear to #3 Camalots (maybe #4) is needed for P3. All anchors are fixed and equipped for rappel. As of fall '06, the bolts all looked pretty good.