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Upper Town Wall
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Attractive Nuisance 
Davis-Holland Route 
Earwax 
Green Drag-on 
Heaven's Gate 

Earwax 

5.11c

   

FA: Don Harder, Dougal McCarty
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 83 page views

Submitted By: Jesse James on Aug 13, 2007


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Description 

This excellent pitch takes the thin right leaning crack in the middle of the wall. Several cruxy sections down low lead to the true crux at the small roof (fixed pin) near the end of the "short" pitch. Supposedly 5.11b to there, but feels harder than that. The full first pitch, which is now dirty, and I have not personally done, continues past an old bolt station, another thin 5.11 crux, and finishes with a wide section to the top of the wall.


Location 

The earwax wall is reached by following a trail west along the base of the upper wall. About 5 minutes past Davis Holland, you will reach a fixed rope and the right side of the earwax wall.


Protection 

The gear is all pretty solid, but can be tricky to figure out. You will probably want to bring a set of RP's. Gear to 2".