Heaven's Gate 

FA:  David Gunstone Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  4 pitches Views: 352 page views Submitted By: Jesse James on Apr 16, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route is basically a 3 pitch extension to the first pitch of Lamplighter.

P1(5.10c). Lamplighter, it is a steep looking wide crack, with many good holds to supplement. After the chimney follow a crack system slightly right past a couple bolts. Don't belay at the first anchor you see! Keep heading right another 20 feet to another two bolt anchor. I thought this was the best pitch on the route.

P2(5.11a). Follow Bolts over the bulge directly above the belay to an edgy face.

P3(5.10+). More edging past many bolts.

P4(5.11a). Follow more bolts past two roofs to a final two bolt anchor at a nice ledge. The second roof holds the crux of the route in my opinion.

A 70 meter rope will get you through all of the rappels

Location 

Left of Davis Holland, you will see two bulging offwidths off of the ground. Lamplighter is the right crack. Then follow the bolts.

Protection 

15 or so draws, 70 meter rope, single rack to 3 inches for the first pitch.