This route is basically a 3 pitch extension to the first pitch of Lamplighter.
P1(5.10c). Lamplighter, it is a steep looking wide crack, with many good holds to supplement. After the chimney follow a crack system slightly right past a couple bolts. Don't belay at the first anchor you see! Keep heading right another 20 feet to another two bolt anchor. I thought this was the best pitch on the route.
P2(5.11a). Follow Bolts over the bulge directly above the belay to an edgy face.
P3(5.10+). More edging past many bolts.
P4(5.11a). Follow more bolts past two roofs to a final two bolt anchor at a nice ledge. The second roof holds the crux of the route in my opinion.
A 70 meter rope will get you through all of the rappels
Location
Left of Davis Holland, you will see two bulging offwidths off of the ground. Lamplighter is the right crack. Then follow the bolts.
Protection
15 or so draws, 70 meter rope, single rack to 3 inches for the first pitch.
Way fun! Definitely a must do. Pitches 2-4 is thoroughly bolted so there is no worry of getting run out anywhere on these pitches.
P1 (10c trad chimney with some bolts) can be awkward in places, but just when you think it's getting desperate, there are no hands rests.
P2 is a one move wonder (11a; pull the roof at the anchors then go long and right for the jug/rail). Very sporty/edgy (10) for the remainder of the pitch (thoroughly bolted).
P3 is shorter to the roofs. The angle eases up and is more relaxing version of the previous.
P4 is through the double roofs with the second roof definitely the crux of the route (harder than the roof at the start of P2).
If you only have a 60 meter rope, there is a decent way to rap off this route using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors: -From Heaven's Gate anchors, rappel straight down 30 meters to next bolted anchors below roofs (you will be at the ends of your rope). -Rappel down 30 meters to the very ends of your rope and pull/walk yourself ~30' over to the anchors on Golden Road (the anchors are not very visible until you are near the ends of your rope, and you will be at the last 2-3 feet of your rope to reach the anchors; there is little to no rope abrasion when pulling/walking yourself over if you position your rope properly). -Rappel to next anchors on Golden Road. -Rappel <30 meters to a ledge 15 feet off the ground (ropes will be out of sight down an overhang). -Scramble down off of the ledge after pulling your rope.
Be aware! These are full length rappels on a 60 meter, so if you are unsure of your rope length, walk off instead (or bring a 70 meter or double ropes).
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