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D is for Dictory 

5.11b

   

FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 101 page views

Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008


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Description 

Technically a variation to Fool's Gold, this begins on the start of that route (which is also the start to Heart of the Country). After the first section, clip a bolt and head up and left to a large golden flake. Jamming and Liebacking leads to a leftward traverse (use a long sling on your last cam) to a bolted corner which provides the crux.


Location 

Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. A 60m rope descends.


Protection 

Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.