Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
24 Hour Buccaneer 
Amandla 
Batskins 
City Park 
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters 
Godzilla 
Iron Horse 
Japanese Gardens 
Model Worker 
Narrow Arrow Direct 
Narrow Arrow Overhang 
Natural Log Cabin 
Newest Industry 
Numbah Ten 
Princely Ambitions 
Sagittarius 
Salad Fingers 
Shirley 
Sloe Children 
Stern Farmer 
Tadpole 
Tatoosh 
Thin Fingers 
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) 
With Apologies to Walter B 

Newest Industry 

5.11a PG13

   

FA: Greg Olsen, Max Dufford, Darryl Cramer
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 142 page views

Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

A really enjoyable slab climb located on The Shield, which is essentially the large slab on the upper left portion of the Lower Wall. Bolted slab climbing leads to a runout up a dike. Natural gear protects moves over a roof. Descend from anchors or continue to the anchor on top of the wall via 5.7-5.8 slab climbing.


Location 

The best approach is probably via Princely Ambitions (.9) and Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters (.10+). From the anchor at the top of the latter climb, scramble up and right across a grassy ledge to an anchor below the slab. Beware of loose debris on the ledge: anything that falls could easily land on someone below! I believe one 70m rope will get you down the wall, but two 60m or 70m ropes are a sure bet.


Protection 

Bolts and gear to 1 inch. Bolted anchors.



Comments on Newest Industry Add Comment
Show which comments
By andyf
From: Tacoma, WA
Jan 1, 2009

Husker Du, "Newest Industry," from Zen Arcade (1984)

Been through mass destruction once,
but once was not enough.
Said we want a second chance
and all they say is "Tough."
A world where science went too far,
there's no way to survive.
Why can't we get this thing straightened out,
I want to stay alive.

They burned and bombed the East and North,
and there's no place left to go.
The Sun Belt's overcrowded,
so let's annex Mexico.
The Peso's only worth a dime,
but they've got all that land.
No need for civil war,
we know they'll understand, right?

Is that how you like it?

Factories left unattended,
crumbling to the ground.
We tried to keep them running,
but there's no more oil around.
We used it all to fight a war
that neither side could win.
Vietnam is little league
compared to where we've been.

Now we live in caves and huts
and we don't have pay TV.
And everyone is signing up
for the newest industry.
Standard Oil goes solar power,
all try to make a buck.
So I'll sit and smoke cigarettes
and babble "What the F__k?"