To the right of Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin climb a left facing corner to bolts and a stance. Above, climb through corners via tricky stemming and chimney moves with small gear (.11+) to another ledge. This was the original free version climbed in 1985. The other part that was previously freed is the actual overhang, approached from the ledge atop Narrow Arrow Direct, which was first done in 1984. For the complete 1999 free pitch, lieback the arete/corner above the first pitch (.12+) past bolts to the roof. A very difficult move (airy .12) leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above. A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular.
Location
Starts between With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin and Narrow Arrow Direct in a left facing corner with a crack on the face of the corner.
First ascent info that was cut off: FFA (full current pitch): Chris Schlotfeldt, 99.
Above the top anchors, it is possible to continue climbing via corners and some broken rock to a higher anchor below the Salad Fingers corner (.11b/c).
Protection
4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section. Nuts (include RP's!) and cams small to 1 inch. There are no less than 3 (!!!) chain-equipped anchors on the route! The first is entirely superfluous and consists of doubled bolts before the .11+ crux. The second is at the end of the first pitch proper, right before the crux .12+ arete. The third is in the chimney above the roof. Descent from the newly placed top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.
Although I have yet to lead this, I must deviate from my paradigm of only adding routes I've redpointed as it is among the absolute best at Index (and anywhere else I've climbed). The climbing is mostly well-protected but there is potential for big falls, especially from the first chimney/stemming section and from moves at and above the roof.
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