Fun face climbing capped by a very difficult mantle.
This route is immediately right of the second pitch of GM. From the anchors, walk right several feet on a ledge to a wide crack. Climbing this leads to an undercling. Heading rightward leads to the real business, face climbing on chickenheads, jutting intrusive stones, and tiny edges. Climb mostly straight up until you reach a sloping, narrow ledge, then hand-traverse right to the anchors.
The final mantle to the chains is rumored to be impossible for humans.
Location
To the right of GM's second pitch.
Protection
A couple of pieces of trad gear would protect the very bottom moves, after that pro is 3 bolts.
If your leading this take along some small stoppers or maybe small cams to protect the mantel. I had a harder time gaining the rail then pulling the mantel.
The mantel at the top is .11a (and very doable); if you fail to bring stoppers/small cams to protect it, you may end up grabbing the chains (as I did). Be aware that you have to FULLY mantel to reach the chains (unless you are tall). The bolts on the route are very rusty; it may be desirable to replace them at this point.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Jul 29, 2008 rating: 5.11c
I TRed this route today after climbing HOTC, and thought it was pretty difficult in the grade. I made two separate attempts at the mantel and finally pulled it off, but was left standing to the left of the anchor, face against the rock. Great route, though, with sustained knob climbing all the way to the sloping ledge below the anchor.
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