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Fifth Force 

5.12b

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 100 feet
Views: 75 page views

Submitted By: Extra Sketch on Jun 16, 2008


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Description 

An area classic, possibly the best or second best sport route I've ever done. Vertical climbing with hard cruxes and great rests. Very intriguing climbing!


Location 

Start on Cunning Stunt but cut right before the first pin and clip a bolt...head straight up from there.


Protection 

Bolts



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By Drewsky
Jul 3, 2008

If you are short, the bottom section of the route contains a rather potent crux; the two options I've taken have been:

1: Clip the 3rd bolt, then downclimb a move and step right to a left facing lieback and a lunge move from small crimps (part of the the "force-fed" variation); then head left on big holds to rejoin Fifth Force.

2: Take on the "original" tall man crux directly above the 3rd bolt. My method was a 4-points-off dyno, catching an edge with one hand (you could probably get two on it and it would be easier). A longer reach might eliminate the dyno.

Either way, an absolute classic.