Good gear the whole way, bring a good sized rack with a full set of stoppers and doulbes in the finger sized pieces. Lots of finger locking up corners. Finishes on steep holds just above a recently cut stump. Great climb!
Location
Starts 3 feet right of Thin Fingers on the recently brushed dihedral.
Protection
Standard rack up to 2" inches, doubles in finger sized gear.
You need a 70m rope to rap/lower/TR this one. You *might* be able to swing over to intermediate anchors on Thin fingers to get back to the ground if you only have a 60m.
Although this route may have been 10b before it was cleaned; with the bolt and the removal of the stump/major cleaning it feels like the easiest 10 at index...
The Tattoosh in the Cummins guide is a 5.9 and hangs a right into a kind of wide kind of dirty crack.
The route being described here sounds like what the Cummins guide calls "Free at Last, 5.10b R". It goes up the beginning of Tatoosh and hangs a left into a nice dihedral with a finger crack, and ends at a shiny pair of clip-links on a roof block. I climbed it last night, it is now clean and not runout, although the gear is a little fiddly. From the anchor you can easily lower down to the Thin Fingers anchor with a 60m.
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