Terminal Preppie 

FA:  Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson 1983 Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 141 page views Submitted By: andyf on Jul 17, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Terminal Preppie: Taking a TR run.

Description 

I absolutely love this route!!! Terminal Preppie offers multiple 5.11 cruxes with a great blend of power and finesse.

Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.

Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.

For years, this route has been rated 5.11c. A microflake broke at the crux in 2007, causing some to think it's now a letter grade harder. You decide.

Location 

Approach as for Roger's Corner. Terminal Preppie is the first obvious route on the slab left of Roger's Corner.

Protection 

5 bolts (old bolts replaced in 2007), plus a few supplemental pieces. Definitely bring small wireds for the upper roof and for protecting the small crack/flake above the first roof. A #1 Camalot works well in the flake getting to the first bolt. A #3 Wild Country Rock is perfect for the upper roof. You can place a #2 Camalot in the final horizontal hand crack.