This great long pitch begins with easier climbing and a smeary corner. You can get a full-on no-hands rest at the first set of anchors, but don't stop there, the best is yet to come. Go straight up the seam (crux) to a good hand crack and more superb liebacking. Most people skip the crux by going right at the first set of anchors, making it not as good at about 5.10. Warning, a 70 meter rope is needed to reach the ground on this one.
Location
Far right side of the lower wall, the splitter upper crack is easily seen from below.
This is a great climb that requires a nice variety of techniques. If I recall, you might want to bring some small gear for the crux moving up off the first belay.
A cool variation called Big Toes (5.11) traverses right at the upper roof to another thin crack about 10 feet to the right of the regular route. Rejoin thin fingers about 10 feet below the anchor.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jun 4, 2007 rating: 5.11a
This one really should be called "thin hands". The splitter upper crack is primarily #1 camalots. I'd bring at least three #1 camalots next time - I only had two and had to back clean.
A good rack would be doubles thin to #2 camalots, with some extra #1 and #0.75 camalots. Small nuts are useful as well.
The 11a crux is hard and balancy. I cheated. I'm blaming the ... err.. humidity. The upper crack is sweetness and worth the cheat.
Main Wall
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