Climb the initial section of Japanese Gardens until you can protect the rightward entry moves with a bolt (at the chalkstone halfway up the hands section ). At this point the climb turns strenuous and technical. Once established in the corner climb through hard moves up to an obvious pin scar, from here another challenging section leads to a purely fun .11 finger crack to the chains. The second pitch has now been freed at .12d (I think), though I have never tried, so don't hold me to that.
Location
Start as for Japanese Gardens. From the ground it is the obviously difficult looking right facing corner that trends rightward off of Japanese Gardens.
Protection
Protection is thin, but there. Everyone that I know seems to protect this testpiece a bit different. It is all there, just not the most obvious.
The "full" Stern Farmer (.12d) is a combination of the original first and second pitches climbed in one pitch from the ground. Above the first anchor, a difficult move enters a flared chimney (standard Index fare). An excellent Yellow Alien and, higher up, some fixed mank, protect the flare. An airy roof move exits the chimney; above, fixed copperheads and some good 00-0 size TCU's protect a hard (.11+) balance move above. A bolt then protects moves to the anchor. This extension/combination should not be missed!
Main Wall
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