This splitter finger crack is started by traversing on top of a large flake to an akward stance in a corner. You can place a good piece here(.4 camalot), then make a strenuous move to get to good finger locks in a right facing corner. A short stemming section is encountered before the final splitter crack in a left facing corner.
There are 2 new pitches above sloe children, I think the left one is around 5.11- and the right one is 5.10 maybe. I haven't done them yet, but hear they are quite good.
Location
The most popular way to get to this pitch is by taking godzilla, then Pitch 2 of city park. This dumps you right at the base.
Protection
LOTS of small cams!!! Nuts don't work in this crack very well.
The freight train crux makes the experience complete! I can not remember topping out without the train, you might want to hang out in the upper dihedral and wait for one to come so you may have the pleasure of doing the upper crux ...properly.
The left pitch above Sloe Children is about .11- and fun. It features easier climbing (.9-) up corners to moderate (.9/10-) slab climbing to a ledge. Above, harder climbing in a corner leads to the crux roof encounter (.11-) and crack climbing (.9) above. Some bolts; nuts and cams to 2 inches. I recommend being careful and using a 70m rope to descend to anchors below. The right climb is 5.9, I believe, and is technically the 4th pitch to City Park. I could be wrong about that, however. The name was apparently that of a local band; a sloe is a type of plum used to flavor alcoholic beverages such as sloe gin.
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